For many people, the name Aran, usually refers to a sweater. The Aran
as it pertains to Ireland denotes three small islands of the coast of County
Clare, Inishmore, (The Big Island) Inishmaan, (The Middle Island) and Inisheer,
(The Eastern Island).
Inishmore, the largest of the islands
with the biggest population, approximately 900 people, is eight miles long
and has only one major road, which runs the length of the island. The main
village and harbor, Kilronan is connected to a second smaller village of
Kilmurvy by this single artery. On Inishmore’s southern coast lies the Aran
Islands’ most famous monument, Dun Aengus.
Dun Aengus is a prehistoric cliff fort defended on the landward
side by three semicircle rings of massive dry-stone battlements, and a broad
band of vicious looking sharp upended rocks placed in such a way that they
would impede any enemy. The innermost circle is 150 feet across..
There are three other such strongholds on the island, each an impressive
in its own way. Dun Doocaher (the black fort) is similarly positioned on
the edge of cliffs, surrounded by acres of limestone pavement, whereas Dun
Onaght and Dun Eolhla are completely circular and set in the middle of the
island. Information relative to who built the forts, or exactly when are
vague, however, research and analysis would suggest they are around 2,000
years old..
Inishmaan, the middle island, is
the least served by ferry service. It remains the most unspoiled island
in the group and the most traditional. Some of the older women wear the
old style of calf-length woolen skirts, with a colorful shawl and headscarf.
Automobiles are few and far between. Walking paths and rocky hillsides
beckon to the agile visitor. And like its sister island Inishmore; Inishmaan
also has its share of historical monuments, including Conor Fort, the most
splendid of the circular (or oval) dry-stone forts of the islands. Also
on Inishmaan is a pretty little thatched cottage known as Teach Synge, where
the playwright J.M. Synge, (1871-1909), a frequent visitor to the island
spent his time..
Inisheer, the smallest of the three
islands, is sectioned off by countless stonewalls. The main villages are
in the northern section of the island, which are enhanced by two beautiful
sandy beaches. The ruins of a 15th century tower house known as O’Brien’s
Castle also dominates the north shore. .
Among its early Christian is the tiny 11th-12th_ century church
associated with St. Gobnat, who was said to have been the only women allowed
on the islands in the early Christian era. Teampall Chaomhain, called the
Church of Kevin, had to be excavated from an extremely large sand dune strewn
with seashells. Chaomhain was said to be the brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough,
in County Wicklow..
The Aran sweater (gansey) alluded to in early passage, with their
distinctive patterning, are still worn by the islanders in cold weather.
The sweaters are thought to have received the name “gansey” from Guernsey,
one of the Channel Islands located in the English Channel, where every young
man was expected to sail to prove his manhood, and from which the patterns
are thought to have come..
Traditional costume is still worn by some of the islanders, especially
on Inishmaan, and that would include rawhide shoes, suited to the islands
rocky terrain, and finger-braided girdles, or crois, of colored wool..
The resilience and warmth of the Aran Islandsers and the great beauty
associated with the landscape have attracted writers, painters and filmmakers
for over one hundred years..