“Where Old Ways Survive”,

The Aran Islands

by Jim Kelly

For many people, the name Aran, usually refers to a sweater. The Aran as it pertains to Ireland denotes three small islands of the coast of County Clare, Inishmore, (The Big Island) Inishmaan, (The Middle Island) and Inisheer, (The Eastern Island).

Inishmore, the largest of the islands with the biggest population, approximately 900 people, is eight miles long and has only one major road, which runs the length of the island. The main village and harbor, Kilronan is connected to a second smaller village of Kilmurvy by this single artery. On Inishmore’s southern coast lies the Aran Islands’ most famous monument, Dun Aengus.

Dun Aengus is a prehistoric cliff fort defended on the landward side by three semicircle rings of massive dry-stone battlements, and a broad band of vicious looking sharp upended rocks placed in such a way that they would impede any enemy. The innermost circle is 150 feet across..

There are three other such strongholds on the island, each an impressive in its own way. Dun Doocaher (the black fort) is similarly positioned on the edge of cliffs, surrounded by acres of limestone pavement, whereas Dun Onaght and Dun Eolhla are completely circular and set in the middle of the island. Information relative to who built the forts, or exactly when are vague, however, research and analysis would suggest they are around 2,000 years old..

Inishmaan, the middle island, is the least served by ferry service. It remains the most unspoiled island in the group and the most traditional. Some of the older women wear the old style of calf-length woolen skirts, with a colorful shawl and headscarf. Automobiles are few and far between. Walking paths and rocky hillsides beckon to the agile visitor. And like its sister island Inishmore; Inishmaan also has its share of historical monuments, including Conor Fort, the most splendid of the circular (or oval) dry-stone forts of the islands. Also on Inishmaan is a pretty little thatched cottage known as Teach Synge, where the playwright J.M. Synge, (1871-1909), a frequent visitor to the island spent his time..

Inisheer, the smallest of the three islands, is sectioned off by countless stonewalls. The main villages are in the northern section of the island, which are enhanced by two beautiful sandy beaches. The ruins of a 15th century tower house known as O’Brien’s Castle also dominates the north shore. .

Among its early Christian is the tiny 11th-12th_ century church associated with St. Gobnat, who was said to have been the only women allowed on the islands in the early Christian era. Teampall Chaomhain, called the Church of Kevin, had to be excavated from an extremely large sand dune strewn with seashells. Chaomhain was said to be the brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough, in County Wicklow..

The Aran sweater (gansey) alluded to in early passage, with their distinctive patterning, are still worn by the islanders in cold weather. The sweaters are thought to have received the name “gansey” from Guernsey, one of the Channel Islands located in the English Channel, where every young man was expected to sail to prove his manhood, and from which the patterns are thought to have come..

Traditional costume is still worn by some of the islanders, especially on Inishmaan, and that would include rawhide shoes, suited to the islands rocky terrain, and finger-braided girdles, or crois, of colored wool..

The resilience and warmth of the Aran Islandsers and the great beauty associated with the landscape have attracted writers, painters and filmmakers for over one hundred years..